Salmon River (CLOSED)

Tucked into the side pocket of an unremarkable hotel lobby is a lively, colorful spot for no frills, competently prepared, reasonably priced seafood. Tuna tartare is seasoned deftly with cilantro, red onion and lime juice, but served in an unceremonious mound. Pan-seared salmon is mild and flaky, and fillet of black sea bass, roasted simply in lemon-herb oil with its crisp skin intact, remains juicy and light. Executive chef Rene Cuzco seems less inclined to challenge customers than to provide agreeable, modern comfort seafood.