Safran (CLOSED)

Settle into an orange-and-pistachio banquette at this Chelsea eatery, to sample French-inflected Vietnamese food from chef Laura Lam (Monsoon). A prawn-and-grapefruit salad features crustaceans grilled to smoky crispness, and a pan-seared fillet of sole is so mild and tender, it’s practically a confection. Those still seeking sweet relief can try the hot banana cake dessert, a smart riff on that Asian standard, banana fritters.