Ruby Foo’s (CLOSED)

David Rockwell held nothing back in his design. Exhibits A through D: a grand, curved staircase; Buddha statues everywhere; a giant Pop-Art Mao print overseeing the joyful chaos; and managers gliding through the semidarkness, muttering seating strategy into Secret Service–style earpieces. It’s Kill Bill: Vol. 1 refracted through a Moulin Rouge lens. Savory teriyaki-glazed Chilean sea bass satays and barbecued-duck dumplings barely touch the lazy Susan before they’re devoured. Spicy garlic chicken with Shanghai noodles and stir-fried filet mignon with chow fun and black-bean garlic sauce are shareable entrées. Desserts are notoriously luscious: The giant Bento Box Dessert Sampler is a medley of East-West abstractions like coconut-chocolate maki rolls and “toro” sashimi, made with strawberry jelly candy.