Put your hungry self in the capable hands of Roberto Paciullo, a Salerno native who runs a no-frills eatery in the Bronx’s venerable Italian enclave. Grab a seat at one of the wooden tables and let Paciullo create
a proper four-course feast from the blackboard specials. Tasty, tentacle-heavy grilled calamari has the meaty consistency of steak; tinfoil-baked radiatore come bathed in a vibrant red sauce or olive oil; and short
ribs shine in a rich chili-pepper-and-beer sauce. It’s all blissfully simple.