Rice revolution: The grain rises at New York restaurants

You may not have noticed, but rice—once a lowly supporting player—is staging a revolt. No longer a mere sauce-soaking filler, the previously overlooked staple has been elevated to main-course status by the city’s voguish new restaurants. Leading the surge are nouveau Southeast Asian restaurants like Khe-Yo and Uncle Boons, while Southern joints rep regional favorites. Some restaurants—such as hot spots Mission Chinese Food and ABC Cocina—are devoting whole menu sections to rice entrées. The upstart grain is even challenging pasta’s supremacy as the headlining Italian starch. In October, Chris Cannon and chef Chris Jaeckle will debut their trattoria All’onda, named after the Venetian-style risotto. “Noodles have had their time in the spotlight,” says Jaeckle. “Rice has been neglected, and it’s time to bring it to the forefront.”