Belgian cuisine had its New York moment a few years back, but this pubby restaurant signals a revival. The bare-bones dining room features a pressed-tin ceiling and a long bar where patrons sip Belgian beers from custom-logoed glassware designed for specific brews. Chef Ryan Skeen (5 Ninth, Café Boulud) offers shareable plates that showcase an eclectic range of Belgian flavors. From the Dutch comes a tidy bowl of meatballs, and from the French, a cast-iron crock of carbonnade—caramelized beef cheeks slow-cooked in dark beer.
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