Redeye Grill

Named for the overnight flight between L.A. and New York, Redeye purports to offer dishes of each city. Despite the silly concept, garish decor, high prices and grating noise level, the food (mainly seafood and sushi) is quite good. Standouts include angel-hair pasta topped with pan-seared scallops, artichokes and sun-dried tomatoes; and moist sea bass roasted in a clay pot with tomatoes, black olives, garlic and olive oil. Several dishes are perfect for sharing, especially the Dancing Shrimp, a dozen oversized coconut-tempura crustaceans. At night, the place really parties, and a jazz trio performs from the balcony (8pm to midnight, Tuesday through Saturday). P.S. It isn’t the drinks or the jet lag: There really are two enormous copper shrimp revolving above the room.