Rancho Jubilee (CLOSED)

Though its aesthetics may seem at odds with itself—El Rancho Jubilee looks like an ode to the cowboy (saddle seats, straw ceiling, barn-wood paneling) set inside a D.R. fish shack—there’s nothing confused about the food: fantastic fresh seafood like excellent cazuela de mariscos in a spicy, creamy sauce; rich but well-balanced shrimp-stuffed plantains; and perfectly cooked whole red snapper. If carne is preferred, in addition to a large choice of steaks, goat, guinea hen and rabbit deliver on that island vibe. So, relax, take your time, and loosen a few buttons. For a night at least, you’re on vacation.