Ramen Kuidouraku (CLOSED)

This Tokyo ramen chain now has multiple New York locations. Noodle lovers can sample authentic versions of the dish that, in its watered-down version, is beloved by undergrads everywhere. At the First Avenue location, bowls of aromatic shio (salt) broth are topped with slippery wheat noodles, pork belly, julienned scallions and half an egg, or you can select one of three tsuke-men—dipping noodle—options. The “deluxe” choice, with a heap of thick noodles, features a dark, garlicky broth that contains chopped hunks of briny dried scallop. On St. Mark’s Place, the specialty is syo-yu (soy sauce) broth.