Plan B (CLOSED)

With such a cheeky name,it's not surprising that this Nolita tapas joint isn't afraid to get a little naughty. Robert Hanechak (Bouley, Nobu) dispatches plates that are not for the gastronomically timid: a duck-heart duo of soufflé and pâté; python sausage outfitted with vinegared onions; and seared bull testicles with Yukon-potato mash. The digs are as, ahem, ballsy as the do-you-dare menu, looking to the edgy skate-park landscape of urban Bilbao and Barcelona for inspiration: Graffiti art brightens one wall, banquettes are covered in horsehide, while petrified barracudas and jars of octopus specimens offer a Dada touch. Chicken-wire wine cabinets house bottles of txakolina wine (also mixed into a cocktail with jalapeño tequila, pineapple, pomegranate, lemon and soda), port and sherry. Clover Club alum Ivy Mix consults on the cocktail program, employing Basque sloe-berry liqueur pacharan to lend a Spanish accent to a Pimm's cup (with ginger beer, orange, cucumber and mint). On your way out, grab a matchbook—they swap the flame-sparking sticks for condoms touting "Keep Calm and Have a Plan B."