Patsy’s Italian Restaurant

You want the whole fancy-schmancy package? Patsy’s has preserved it for you, complete with waiters in white jackets trimmed with gold braid. The menu is a collection of nostalgic red-sauce meals. Spiedino alla romano is the ultimate deep-fried, grilled cheese sandwich, covered with a tangy anchovy sauce. Linguine with white clam sauce is perfectly cooked, garlicky and chock-full of clams. Chicken parmigiana is crisp, juicy and, happily, not buried beneath an obscene amount of mozzarella. There are a couple of great deals on the wine list, including an Amarone that’s priced to move at $50. If you have any doubts about what to order, trust the tuxedoed captain: He knows.