Pastis (CLOSED)

Yes, this Keith McNally production is still chic, still reliable and still (very) crowded. The decor is quintessential Parisian bistro—aged tiles, nickel bar, distressed mirrors—and so is the food. You’ll find buttery organic pan-seared salmon and thick, succulent steaks served with slender fries. To avoid the clamorous nighttime scene, make a reservation for weekend brunch; it’s usually less packed and features lobster, steak and a croque-monsieur in addition to the expected lineup of egg dishes.