Papatzul

Mayan for “food of the gods,” Papatzul spreads a feast worthy of minor deities, if not Quetzalcoatl himself. Mexico City native Thierry Amezcua offers up the diverse flavors of southern Mexico, with highlights from the Yucatán, the Veracruz coast and Oaxaca, as well as the addictive street food of the capital. Starting off the proceedings are satisfying appetizers like seared sea scallop tostadas with avocado-tamarind salsa and the street snack favorite sopes con chorizo (corn cakes with chorizo). Entrées move fluidly between coast and campo, with standouts like the fish stew and the roasted duck enchiladas slumbering in mole sauce. Painted brick walls, decorative masks and dozens of well-aged tequilas bring a bit of Mexico City nostalgia to the place.