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You might hear the lilt of African French in this orange-and-white-walled chairless Harlem pizzeria, but that’s the only thing special about this place. When the counterman told us the pies taste “like Domino’s,” he wasn’t kidding; the chain’s stamp is there, down to the cloying tomato sauce, oddly sugary, chewy crust and rubbery white cheese. The same processed dairy goes into most of the crêpes, fried to order on a griddle. The spongy, sweet dough is a strange match for savory fillings, such as egg, cheese and deli-grade ham, or salty minced chicken breast. The sole redeeming trait: late-night hours in a neighborhood that’s dead after dark.
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