While the slices at this no-frills-yet-elegant eatery are indeed delicious—try the Juno with broccoli rabe and potatoes—it’s also one of the only pizzerias that offers exciting natural wines, placing it in a league of its own. People love Ops’ curation of choice bottles so much, the owners recently opened a wine shop, Forêt Wines, in nearby Ridgewood.
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