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Diners savvy enough to slink beyond the velvet rope are led past a packed bar to the dim, brick-lined “candle lounge” or to the less intimate main dining area where they’re serving surprisingly good food. Despite the Versace-mannequin staff, the thumping music and a gimmicky menu (headings include “For Us,” “For All” and “For Me”), the small plates are tasty. Finger-friendly duck-and-basil spring rolls and lobster quesadillas are good enough to make up for the boisterous crowds.