Okonomi

New York’s ramen mania rages on, with Ivan Ramen’s full-service slurp shop on the Lower East Side, a planned stand-alone from Long Island City pop-up Mu Ramen and this 380-square-foot ramen-ya from noodle whiz Yuji Haraguchi. A sit-down offshoot of the chef’s Kinfolk Studios and Whole Foods counters, the chestnut-walled restaurant specializes in ichi ju san sai—a traditional Japanese meal of one soup and three side dishes—for breakfast and lunch, with options like broccoli rabe shiraae (tofu-and-sesame-dressed salad), roasted Spanish mackerel and miso soup with ramp stalks. For dinner, snag a seat at the four-stool counter overlooking the open kitchen, where Haraguchi turns out a reservations-only, daily-changing ramen tasting.