"Here it is!" Obicà states proudly—that's the direct Neapolitan translation of its name. The new Flatiron Italian joint, originally a mozzarella bar, imports exceptional DOP varieties twice weekly. The best is the plush burrata ($12), luscious blobs of milky splendor, which could make a meal in itself when paired with a zesty Caponata alla Siciliana eggplant casserole ($9) or hearty bruschette ($12). But then you would miss out on the dizzying array of house-made pastas and bountiful salads.
Or are you jonesing for pizza? Obicà fills that bill as well, featuring fresh, stone-ground flours that transform into pliant, nutty crusts—the Funghi Porcini ($19) alone is worth a visit. Swinging in for cocktails? Obicà’s bar program shines, defined by uncomplicated concoctions brimming with inspired fruit and vegetable purees. But it's certainly not just a bar: The neo-industrial dining room is about as big as the menu.
Obicà relies heavily on impeccable ingredients, sourcing from local farmers whenever possible. Some dishes suffer from under-seasoning, but the quality of ingredients helps compensate and portion sizes are generous enough to impart a sense of opulence. Oh, and you can always DIY with the table’s salt, pepper, chili flakes and remarkably vibrant olive oil.
Service is gracious and friendly, attentive in a most unobtrusive fashion and never not smiling. The conviviality reflects the ambiance: lively but not raucous. If it's a little noisy, it's fully justified, because diners at Obicà are having a wonderful time.
BY: TIME OUT COMMUNITY REVIEWER DEBORAH FENKER