North Square

Nearly everything here is grilled or pan-roasted—grilled pork chops, roasted duck, grilled arctic char and so on. That simple formula works brilliantly, for two reasons: The ingredients are fresh, and the sauces are excellent. Starters set the tone, with winners like a mixed grilled-sausage plate, adorned with goat and sheep cheeses, and grilled shrimp smothered in coconut rice. Entrées are also superb: Roasted lobster tail comes with a tart mustard-dill sauce; succulent grilled kobe steak basks in a bourbon glaze. The tortilla-crusted snapper (only $18) is the best thing on the menu. In fact, all the prices at this unsung secret seem reasonable—given the soft-lit Klimt-tile decor and the expert wine list.