Nino’s

Not famous? Too bad. Before you’re even seated, an overeager waiter will probably throw your napkin in your lap and demand a drink order. Don’t interrupt the rote recitation of specials; you’ll be met with impatience. We received assurances that the soft-shell crabs would not be fried; they arrived thickly battered and cooked in oil. The “tableside” preparation of Caesar salad for two ($22) occurred out of sight, and the end product was no larger than an average Caesar for one. The decadent four-pound lobster Fra Diavolo for two ($79) is impressive, expertly removed from its shell and lightly doused in red sauce. (We hear that Derek Jeter likes it; he probably gets great service.) A complimentary fresh-fruit sculpture is delivered to every table, but—annoyingly—a $15 charge is added to and then subtracted from the check to make sure you understand the value of the gift. Call us crazy, but it didn’t feel like much of a gift.