N'eat (CLOSED)

The Nordic train chugs on—this 65-seat East Village spot is the New York debut of accomplished Swedish chef Gabriel Hedlund, who previously worked in Copenhagen’s Michelin-starred restaurant Kokkeriet and, like many Scandinavian upstarts before him, at Noma under René Redzepi. In the minimalist room—sparsely decorated with lightwood communal tables, gray armless seats and potted kale—Hedlund employs traditional Nordic techniques (smoking, pickling and the like) in dishes such as rehydrated beets with blackberry and pine, fried squid “noodles” with egg yolk and seaweed, and lamb tartare with buckwheat and chives. Smaller snacks (oysters with smoked oil, deep-fried sourdough with mushroom powder) and desserts, like a walnut parfait with pear granita and hay oil, round out the menu.