Show some respect: These pies have the (rarely granted in the States) seal of approval from the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana. That means the flour and tomatoes are imported from Italy, and the mozzarella is made by a Neapolitan artisanal cheese maker. The blistered disks come out of roaring wood-burning ovens in individual and shareable sizes. Naples 45 caters to the midtown workaday throngs, which explains why it’s not open on the weekends. It should be—chef Christopher DeLuna’s innovatively composed salads, pastas and secondi deserve more attention. The long, noisy white-tiled bar is a great place to sample his antipasti before boarding your train.
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