Naka Naka (CLOSED)

While crowds pack into megarestaurants for mass-produced meals, a mellower group of diners can hide out in tiny Naka Naka. Sit on a tatami mat and savor the fruits of the kitchen, starting with spicy slivers of lotus root and a quintet of deliciously dense shrimp dumplings. Thick cuts of yellowtail sashimi and chewy disks of fresh octopus can be paired with a short list of tried-and-true rolls. The sushi is neither phenomenal nor disappointing, but considering how difficult it is to find peace and quiet over dinner in this part of town, we can’t complain.