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It’s Soho sans the scene at this chill, honey-lit tapas joint. Gleaming bottles of Spanish reds sit behind the copper-topped bar, where grazing patrons snack on salty, robust curls of fat-streaked jamón serrano. A quirky sense of humor is evident in the menu: One sandwich combines tender pork loin and piquillo peppers with creamy tetilla, a milky white cheese that derives its Spanish name from its resemblance to a breast, and crema catalana (Spain’s answer to crème brûlée) is described by a Devo lyric: “Whip it good!”