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The menu is full of unusual choices executed unevenly, the room’s decor is predictable, and service is on the slow side—which all adds up to hit-and-miss. Pad kee-mao, “Drunken Noodles”—a street-stand hangover cure made of wide rice noodles cooked in rich, spicy gravy—delivers the chili punch without the soothing flavor. Yet another street-fare stalwart, yum pla muk, is an authentic winner: Tender pieces of perfectly grilled squid mingle with tart fish sauce, sweet plump tomatoes and slices of red onion. If you go in season (late spring to summer), order the mango with sticky rice. Bites of bright, luscious mango are perfectly complemented by spoonfuls of rice washed in sweet, warm coconut milk.