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Of all the historic institutions on MacDougal St—one of Greenwich Village’s most culturally significant, busiest stretches—Minetta Tavern is the most venerable. That’s not a value judgment aimed at Mamoun’s, Cafe Wha?, The Comedy Cellar, La Lanterna de Vittorio, Cafe Reggio, or the all-too-often overlooked Monte’s (there’s a reason those places have stuck around). Let’s throw Ben’s Pizza in there, too. Why not? But Minetta Tavern is, without a doubt, the place with the most gravitas, class, and the highest standards. It’s not just the best restaurant on MacDougal Street or in the neighborhood; it’s one of the city’s most quintessential.
The name Minetta Tavern has ridden that corner brick building since 1937. In 2009, the place was revamped by Keith McNally, restaurateur of Balthazar fame, and wisely, he kept the interior intact. The result: few places in the city have this same timeless, old New York feel. Red leather, brass, checkerboard floors; low light, caricatures on the wall, a pressed-tin ceiling. It feels great to sit in here, whether at a table or the bar, and soak it up. The service is of a piece with the environment: confident, welcoming, smooth as you could please, without the airs or stiffness of fine dining. This is a classy place, but it feels fun.
The cocktail program is, in a word, terrific. Faultless classics predominate, with a few original creations to explore as well; each is beautifully restrained and in lockstep with the old guard. The wine list is also excellent—well curated but not intimidating. While almost exclusively French, it isn’t the longest, but there’s doubtless a bottle for you. Likely two.
The most talked-about item on the menu is the Black Label burger. Is it worth ordering at $38? In short, yes, but so is the $33 Minetta Burger. Since we like cheese and the pricier varietal has none, our choice is clear. The rest of the French-ish menu is packed with heavy hitters not to be overlooked. The delicata squash salad with pear and whipped ricotta is rich, managing to make a cold starter feel indulgent. The Côte de Boeuf is a decadent steak for two, featuring roasted marrow bones, perfectly temped and seasoned. The apple tart is almost too pretty to eat: tender apples ringed by a delicate buttery crust.
This is not an inexpensive meal, and unless you’re solo and it’s early in the evening, you won't be able to just walk in. Reservations are a must. If you’re in the market, Minetta Tavern is well worth it. There are no pretensions here; there’s nothing to “get.” It’s just delicious food, expertly crafted drink, and a room inhabited by New York soul.