Mehtaphor (CLOSED)

Following up the cult success of his East Village cubbyhole, Graffiti, Food Network star Jehangir Mehta expands his playful riffs on Pan-Asian flavors at this new venture in the Duane Street Hotel. Yet for all the wizardry on display—Pop Rocks oysters, beef tartare with guacamole sorbet—the most compelling dish may be the one that most faithfully evokes his childhood in Mumbai. The meatless Indian Street Burger channels an everyday roadside snack called pav bhaji: essentially, the contents of a vegetable samosa flavored with Thai chiles and tart tamarind, then stuffed into a bun. Follow the addictive sandwiches (two per order, plus garlic fries) with a Coconut Fizz—the blend of house-made coconut-chili sorbet, vodka and seltzer has the creamy fizziness you’d expect from a soda-fountain float.