Maze (CLOSED)

Waiters at Gordon Ramsay’s glimmering modern space at the London Hotel, with leather banquettes the shade of faded denim and an inviting chrome-accented bar, might recommend ordering four small plates from the menu, but three serve well, tantalizing your palate and only slightly sparing your wallet. A beet-and-ricotta dish is a stunning quartet of wafer-thin beet slices crowned with clouds of soft cheese. Another visually arresting plate contrasts the pinkness of nearly raw salmon with bright yellow scrambled eggs and black caviar. In a hat’s-off to the host country, dessert brings forth a PB & J with a satiny peanut butter semifreddo, cherry jam and cherry sorbet. The biggest surprise of all: Chef Ramsay is occasionally spotted in the house.