Matsuri (CLOSED)

This hoity-toity Japanese hot spot offers tiny portions at such jumbo prices, it’s hard not to feel as though you’re really paying for the airborne paper sculptures rather than the thumb-size portion of fish on your plate. Culinary ambition is most apparent in the appetizers, which come with inspired flavor combinations like mustard kobe beef and lotus root with soy-sauce sake. Among the entrées, the creamy sake-marinated black cod rivals Nobu’s famous miso-marinated cod, but the fried sea bass was dry and overcooked. Desserts are more reliable, especially the ethereal coconut gelatin in strawberry water.