Mara’s Homemade (CLOSED)

Light Southern food might seem an oxymoron, but not at Mara’s Homemade. The tiny, brightly hued East Village eatery, whose walls are covered with photos of New Orleans’ musicians, serves a seafood-oriented menu of Cajun specialties and barbecue. Owner Mara Levi and her husband David are here nightly waiting tables; food is prepared carefully to order and takes time to arrive. An artichoke, boiled in a seriously hot spice mixture, arrives with a side of creamy rémoulade. A delicate fillet of catfish, fried till crisp, comes with a side of smoky mashed potatoes. Everything pairs well with one of the eight Abita beers offered, and a slice of moist red velvet cake is a fitting send-off note.