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The checkered tablecloths, wicker-wrapped Chianti bottles and animated staff may remind you of the Italian-restaurant scene from Lady and the Tramp. A crush of bridge-and-tunnel partyers are drawn by the kitsch; sometimes the roar of the crowd forces you to communicate with your waiter by writing with the provided crayons on the paper tablecloth. Start with the antipasti for a family-style serving of meats, cheeses and nicely grilled vegetables. Entrées are similarly generous. The scaloppine funghi is a tender cut of veal perched over creamy mashed potatoes and piled high with sautéed mushrooms; another crowd pleaser is pappardelle con salsa aurora, which weaves thick strands of fresh pasta around whole artichoke hearts in a cream-kissed tomato sauce.
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