Malta (CLOSED)

Consider Grand Street Williamsburg’s global-dining corridor, represented by Mexican eateries, Italian ones and this Mediterranean outpost. But instead of focusing solely on Grecian cuisine, the filament-bulb-lit restaurant takes a kitchen-sink approach. Moist lamb brochettes marinated in garlic and lavender are served alongside greasy seafood paella, and gnocchi is gooey with an international blitz of Gorgonzola, pecorino and Manchego cheeses. Brunch offerings are equally unexpected, with items like cod-and-bacon club sandwiches.