Malatesta Trattoria

The polished young people who jam this popular spot are certainly different from the adventurous sorts who once prowled these streets in drag and leather. The restaurant is noisy, inexpensive and ideal for large gatherings. Service is personable and accommodating, and the food gets better as the evening moves along (whether you have wine or not). Pear and caprese salads got things off to a so-so start. But spaghetti with tomato, basil and mozzarella is everything you want it to be: light and tangy, with a sauce begging to be sopped up with a slice of sourdough. The old souls who haunt the ever-changing Village would have related to the decadent tiramisu.