Malagueta (CLOSED)

Set along a tree-lined stretch of Astoria, Malagueta would fit right at home in Rio’s Leblon district. The casual, family-friendly vibe prevails in the simple but handsomely set dining room, while the din of conversation rises above the samba and Brazilian pop playing softly (perhaps too softly) overhead. While steak and linguiça (sausage) make their appearance, the real hits are the nicely seasoned—and surprisingly light— Northeastern dishes like moqueca de camarão (shrimp stew) and corvina com vatapá (whitefish with a creamy fish sauce, bread crumbs, dried shrimp and chili pepper). There’s also a tasty but lean feijoada on Saturdays and mightily satisfying desserts like pudim de leite (flan) and passion fruit mousse, which are neither lean nor particularly difficult to finish.