Madras Café (CLOSED)

A vegan, a vegetarian and an Orthodox Jew walk into a café. No joke—and no problem—at this South Indian sanctuary, where the meat is nonexistent, the dishes kosher, and the chili chutney as hot as the sun. The dimly lit, orange-painted dining room feels miles away from the East Village bustle. Waiters patiently hover nearby before suggesting an order of the flaky adai, an herb-flecked lentil-and-grain pancake (the recipe is from the owner’s mom) that’s perfect for mopping up zingy curry sauces. Idli, lentil-and-rice cakes with chutney, are way more filling than their modest price might imply.