Less glittering boîte than rakish hang, this 15-year-old workhorse has a look dating all the way back to the last bistro craze—distressed mirrors, a copper-topped bar and dull wooden floors round out the worn-in decor. Tourists and Soho habitués chill over tasty standards like warm lentil salad, steak frites and croque-monsieur, all haphazardly flopped on plates with nary a garnish in sight. The prices are reasonable and the flavors familiar, which is how the regulars like it. A decent selection of wines by the glass, inventive cocktails and the kitchen’s long hours make this a good stop after a day (or night) of knocking around Soho.
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