Lobo

Don’t you hate it when a place makes a half-assed effort to reinvent itself by throwing a few objets d’art on the wall and printing a new menu? This spot was home to down-at-the-heels Southern-food outpost Harvest. Now there are bull horns behind the bar and bright serapes on the walls, but that doesn’t make it Texan. On a recent evening, enchiladas were bland and stuffed with overcooked shrimp, with no hint of the promised chipotle-grilled flavor. Spanish rice was dry, and soft chicken tacos were loaded with iceberg lettuce and had that quickly assembled, fast-food taste. The best dish was chile con queso—it wasn’t particularly spicy, but melted cheese with crispy-salty chips is hard to screw up.