When I first heard of Little Grenjai, I was lured by the promise of Thai smash burgers that plastered my Instagram feed. However, when I arrived for dinner, I was saddened to find that burgers were only on offer during the daytime. I should’ve known better, or at least checked the website, as the menu has a scrolling marquee saying in big bold letters: “!!Burger is only available for lunch!!” But honestly, that’s OK, Little Grenjai is so much more than its burgers.
Before it became known for its viral smash burgers, cooking duo and couple chef Trevor Lombaer and Sutathip Aiemsaard spent time building up a profile around the city selling pad Thai out of a converted hot dog cart here, doing a summertime pop-up in the Hamptons there. Their permanent Bed-Stuy locale had a slow start in mid-September since they didn’t have gas (thanks, ConEd). But with just two burners at their disposal, the duo spent their first few months slinging Thai smashed burgers out of a side window, generating quite the buzz. But now that the gas is on and cooking, the menu has expanded to feature a wide range of dishes straight from the streets of Thailand.
Billed as a “Thai American diner,” the space is outfitted with bright red tables, black-and-white checkered floors and a red-tiled counter that overlooks the kitchen. Each time I popped in, once during the day and once at night, the diner was comfortably full with solo diners and threesomes, while the one coveted red tufted booth was perpetually occupied. Even though Little Grenjai has been open for almost a year, I’d still recommend snagging a reservation as there is no waiting vestibule here. While waiting outside may be a comfortable option in the summer, winter can spell trouble.
Dinner is split up into small plates, wok specialties, soups and larger platters—all of which should be shared to get a full breadth of the menu. I started with the lightly breaded Peek Gai Tod Wings. The wings still had a satisfying crunch, also likely thanks to the toasted rice powder dusted on top, and the tamarind glaze was tart and sour, resulting in sticky hands that were totally worth it. Easily one of my favorites of the night was the Crispy Rice Salad. The rice comes formed in a ball, which my dinner date and I broke it all up, greedily spooning up fatty and sour fermented pork with crispy bits of rice. The tangy lime dressing helped to balance the savory while thin strips of ginger awakened the senses. Seafood lovers will surely enjoy The Pad Cha Clam Toast—a Texas Toast covered in a layer of housemade chili paste, topped with plump clams and a lashing of Thai chilies and peppers. The thickness of the bread serves as the perfect sponge to mop up all the broth without getting too soggy.
But for my afternoon visit, me and nearly everyone else in the joint came for the Krapow Smash Burger, evident by the number of burgers I saw on plates and in hands. After a few bites, I understood why it became such a smash. The pork and beef patty is “dragged through the garden” here, seasoned with chilies, basil and oyster sauce, and topped with holy basil. Nodding to Lomboaer’s Chicago roots and his love of giardiniera, Little Grenjai’s version swaps out the pickly bits for bird’s eye chiles and lemongrass. Finishing it all off is a swirl of an orange-y fish-based sauce. Each bite yielded something different. One bite, herbaceous and bright. The next, a sneaky heat that climbed the throat. The last bite, a tang of mayo with a proper amount of funk. And while the burger is a smashing good time, the Chiangmai Chi Dog, also one of its viral hits, deserves its spot on the podium. The house-made Sau Oua-styled dog is made up of ground pork, lemongrass and a mix of Thai spices so much so it has a bit of yellow tinge. The charred, snappy dog also walked through the garden here, dressed with the same relish found in the burger, plus an added pucker of sour and spicy, thanks to sport peppers and a dill pickle spear.
And while there were plenty of hits, viral or otherwise, there were a few dishes that didn’t quite reach the mark. While the lunchtime lobster roll had plenty of plump pieces of fish to justify its $29 price tag, the Thai Trinity Lobster Roll was relatively mild for a dish that allegedly had Thai chilis. If anything, I got more of the freshness of the fish than any underlying heat. The Minced Pork Holy Basil had a bit of funk and fire, but the dish came out lukewarm as opposed to fresh off the wok. In contrast, the Holy Basil Brussels came out hot and steaming but the combo of the fish-based dipping sauce was incredibly salty.
Regardless, Little Grenjai is a must-visit. It’s neighborhoody in all the right ways and is easy for a stop in for lunch or a long linger at dinner. Whether you are hunting down the burger for Instagram clout or just looking for some great Thai eats, Little Grenjai is an easy add to your list.
Vitals
The vibe: An updated Brooklyn diner for the hippest among us with bright pops of red furniture and black-and-white checkered floors. The soundtrack of the constant clang of the kitchen only adds to the charm.
The food: Thai street eats meets a relaxed American diner. The hits (the burger and the hot dog) went viral for a reason, but the tamarind wings, crispy rice salad and drunken noodles also deserve their flowers.
The drinks: No cocktails here, just a short list of wines, beers and sake. However, the House Made Thai Iced Tea With Oat Milk is perfect for anytime of day.
Little Grenjai is located at 477 Gates Avenue. It is open for lunch Wednesday-Sunday from noon-3pm. It is open for dinner from 5pm-9pm on Wednesdays and Sundays, and 5pm-10pm on Thursday-Saturday. It is closed on Mondays and Tuesday.