Levana (CLOSED)

The menu takes chances with flavors far beyond the usual, but not everything works. A pan-roasted veal chop with orecchiette and sugar snap peas is delicious, as are short ribs with a silky parsnip mousseline. However, the leek-and-cauliflower soup, duck confit and Peking duck breast were oversalted, and the beautiful dessert cart was loaded with confections that looked better than they tasted. The lows would be easier to overlook if the bill weren’t so high.