Le Bilboquet (CLOSED)

The loud, sexy music pumping through the tiny space makes Le Bilboquet seem more like a nightlife destination than a restaurant. But it’s the food that keeps the place packed: Thick chunks of fresh tuna perch between layers of lightly fried wonton skins, and tender steak tartare comes with a tower of crisp frites. You won’t find a more piquant steak au poivre this side of the Seine—here it’s a thick cut of beef in a black, peppery pool. Prices are high, but the mostly Euro regulars don’t seem to mind.