Joining the ranks of Upper West Side neighborhood restaurants is this by-the-books Jewish deli—one of few local spots where you can fill up for cheap. Saucer-sized latkes, fried to a crisp, came in a portion of two hulking pancakes for a mere $3.75. The homespun blintzes, which must have been packing a half pound of cheese filling apiece, were a gluttonous delight. Deli snobs should be satisfied by the gratis pickles, butter-soft corned beef and well-seasoned pastrami. The interior—tiled floors, small bistro tables—is sufficiently “authentic,” but this is no Katz’s. It’s theme-park delicatessen, and that’s fine with us.
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