L’Absinthe (CLOSED)

In this Art Nouveau dining room you can imagine artists from the turn-of the-century savoring the mind-altering liqueur that gives this brasserie its name. Lutèce veteran Jean-Michel Bergougnoux divides his menu into “French contemporary” dishes like panko-crusted sushi-grade tuna in a wasabi-gazpacho sauce, and “brasserie classics.” You can dive into all things rich: the glorious poularde truffée et ses legumes pochés is a whole chicken poached in black-truffle broth until the bird is impossibly tender.