La Vineria (CLOSED)

The latest incarnation of this recently relocated trattoria has brought a new chef—Massimiliano Bartoli (Miss Williamsburg Diner)—and a new menu that’s more interesting than its cookie-cutter setting suggests. Start off with the buttery shrimp and calamari skewers and opt for one of Bartoli’s fresh, unusual pastas as your main. The stuffed anolini are beautifully toothsome squash-stuffed bundles swimming in butter. Dry meats and drab desserts confirm our suspicions: Pastas are the only real stars of this Off Broadway show.