La Cabaña Salvadoreña

It’s always a good sign when you walk into an unassuming hole-in-the wall and find it full of neighborhood families. Minutes after placing an order for limonada at this sliver of a restaurant in WaHI, the scent of just-squeezed citrus hits the air. A meal can be made from pillowy cheese and pork stuffed pupusas (thick corn tortillas), moist sweet-corn tamales, a heaping platter of sweet plantains—a paragon of steaming, sticky, candy-like bites, and some of the best rice and beans in the city. The only false step is the overcooked shrimp in a too-tame garlic sauce, but after a glass of sweet horchata, a mixture of herbs, cocoa, cinnamon and sesame seeds, even that can be forgiven.