La Barra Cevicheria (CLOSED)

Think ceviche, and Peru usually comes to mind. But the neon pink CEVICHERIA sign in the window of this snug Mexican small-plates eatery is evidence of the popularity of acid-cured fish throughout much of Latin America. It’s worth ordering the signature dish, though we suggest trying only one of the versions, since the basic preparation remains essentially the same: Your choice of protein (snapper, scallops, shrimp or mushroom) comes tossed in a bright mixture of lime juice and finely diced tomatoes, onion and cilantro, almost like a seafood-studded pico de gallo. While this menu redundancy is somewhat limiting, there are enough other options from the tiny open kitchen to round out a meal. A juicy-if-bland shrimp taco came with four plump crustaceans, black beans and avocado; two types of pleasantly floury empanadas were stuffed with melted cheese, corn kernels and poblano peppers, and with shredded chicken with a slightly sweet mole sauce; and a surprisingly successful tostada supported a thin layer of minced raw tuna with a light chipotle mayonnaise. Our favorite of the traditional desserts was a moist tres leches cake, though soupy rice pudding tasted like preboiled grains doused with cream. If we have a major complaint about La Barra, it’s that very few dishes were particularly special (one rare standout was the guacamole, a winningly simple, tomato-free rendition). Still, it’s a fine place for a quick bite, especially taking into account its thoughtful BYO setup: Select an affordable bottle from the wine list, and someone from a nearby store delivers it to you minutes later. Retail prices with tableside service? Now that’s something special.