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Peter Song—who was a famous variety-show actor in China before becoming a chef—learned the art of noodle-pulling at Lanzhou Handmade Noodle in Flushing's Golden Mall food court. The toque employs his table-slapping techniques at this Hell's Kitchen hole-in-the-wall. Taiwanese-style lamian strands come in six varieties (satay beef, grilled tempura), and diners can also choose from xiaolongbao (soup dumplings), teriyaki (chicken hearts, fish balls) and small plates like wined pork knuckles and red-oil potato salad at the 34-seat restaurant.