Entering the culinary world as a high-school teen, Roxanne Spruance apprenticed under top Chicago chefs Paul Kahan, Koren Grieveson and Dale Levitski, all before she left for college. After moving to New York, the ambitious young chef landed high-profile gigs at wd~50, Cafe Tallulah and eventually Alison Eighteen, where she received acclaim (and a Slow Food Snail of Approval) for her nose-to-tail cooking. That sustainable ethos carries over to her first solo venture, this 65-seat French-American spot in the East Village, where Spruance flexes her globally influenced training with dishes such as delicate chawanmushi (a Japanese steamed egg custard) nestling escargot and black garlic, and scallops served with sunchoke, walnut and chicharrones. Taking cues from the surrounding neighborhood, three distinct dining rooms feature paintings and installations from local artists, while the space remains overarchingly neutral—directing attention instead to the visually complex plates—with rustic crown molding, exposed brick and wrought-iron trimmings.
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