Kin Shop (CLOSED)

Top Chef champ Harold Dieterle channels his Southeast Asian travels into the menu at his sophomore eatery, which serves classic Thai street food alongside more upmarket Thai-inspired dishes. The traditional fare—including taste-bud-obliterating duck larb salad—seems extraneous, but Dieterle’s auteur creations are often inspired. A salad of fried oysters, slivered celery and crispy pork belly is bright and refreshing, while a chefly riff on Massaman curry features a long-braised goat neck with a silky sauce infused with coconut milk, duck fat and pineapple juice. Pair the spicy grub with thoughtful drinks (like the herbaceous Kin & Tonic) that can help tame the flame.