Khyber Pass

If you happen to be strolling down cluttered St. Marks Place in search of a place where you can get loud with your friends, you’re in luck. The dining room is timeworn, but there are plenty of comfy pillows to plop down on, and the laid-back staff certainly won’t rush you. Seasoning tends to be tame; marinated chicken kebabs were tender but lacked flavor. Bouranee baunjaun, thick slices of eggplant over a layer of minty yogurt and coriander, could be the Afghan version of eggplant parmigiana. But look elsewhere for a sweet finish: After one bite of firni, a rose-water–and–pistachio rice pudding, you may think you’ve accidentally swallowed Mom’s hand lotion.