Some of what’s old is new again at Gabriel Stulman’s latest venture Jolene, which opened this spring in the former Great Jones Cafe space after a brief run as The Jones.
Named for the Dolly Parton hit after Stulman “was inspired by Dolly's generosity and philanthropic spirit towards vaccine research,” Jolene’s most obvious aesthetic swap is its exterior. The former radiant bright orange facade synonymous with the restaurant’s previous iterations is now an eggshell hue. Its famed Elvis bust, however, still peers out through a narrow window like a neighborhood mascot.
Inside, the 34-seat space is fashioned after European cafes and is appointed with slotted wooden ceilings, taxidermy and leather banquettes.
Executive chef/partner James McDuffee leads the kitchen. McDuffee was previously chef at Stulman’s West Village restaurant, Joseph Leonard. Jolene’s opening menu items include anchovies in oil with cultured butter and focaccia, lamb tartare, littleneck clams, chopped steak frites and a crispy chicken Milanese. Snacks start at $5 and entrées top out at $32. More than a dozen wines are available by the glass, along with a few beers and cocktails like the aperol spritz, Jolene’s manhattan and the paloma.
Jolene is located at 54 Great Jones Street and is open on Tuesday and Wednesday from 5pm–10pm and Thursday–Saturday from 5pm–11pm.